GOEZTo winterize a motorcycle, wash and dry it, deal with the fuel as your manual recommends, keep the battery on a maintainer or remove it, change the oil, inflate the tyres and get them off the ground if you can, then store the bike somewhere dry under a breathable cover. Check your owner's manual for model-specific steps.
A few hours of preparation in autumn saves you a dead battery, sticky brakes and a reluctant engine in spring. The steps below are general good practice. Your bike may need something different, so check your owner's manual first — it's the best source for your model's storage advice, oil grade and fuel recommendations.
Before you store it: a last ride
Take one final ride to warm the engine and oil fully. It's a good moment to notice anything that needs fixing over winter. Fill up on the way home if your manual recommends storing with a full tank.
How to winterize a motorcycle, step by step
1. Clean and dry it thoroughly
Road dirt, salt and dead insects hold moisture and can damage paint and metal over months. Wash the bike, then dry it completely, including hidden spots. A short ride or a blower helps clear water from crevices. Once dry, protect bare metal and paint as your manual or the product suggests.
2. Look after the fuel
Fuel ages in storage and can leave deposits that cause starting problems. Common approaches are filling the tank and adding a fuel stabiliser, then running the engine briefly so treated fuel reaches the fuel system. On carburettor bikes, some manuals advise draining the float bowls. Which is right depends on your bike, so follow your owner's manual.
3. Change the oil and filter
Used oil contains contaminants that you don't want sitting in the engine all winter. Many riders change the oil and filter before storage, so the bike is ready to go in spring. Use the grade and quantity in your manual.
4. Look after the battery
Batteries slowly lose charge in storage, and a flat battery can be damaged. You have two options:
- Leave it fitted and connect a battery maintainer (a smart charger designed to stay connected) suitable for your battery type.
- Remove it and store it somewhere cool, dry and frost-free, charging it from time to time as the battery maker recommends.
Many modern bikes have alarms and electronics that draw a little power even when off, so a maintainer is especially useful for them.
5. Tyres and stand
Tyres sitting in one spot for months can develop flat spots. Inflate them to the pressure in your manual and, if you can, lift both wheels off the ground with paddock stands or a centre stand. If not, roll the bike a little every few weeks so the tyres rest on a different spot. More in our tyre pressure and care guide.
6. Chain, cables and controls
Clean and lubricate the chain so it doesn't rust — see the chain maintenance guide. Lubricate cables and pivots as your manual suggests.
7. Coolant and fluids
If your bike is liquid-cooled and stored somewhere that can freeze, make sure the coolant gives enough frost protection. Check brake fluid level and condition too, and note anything that's due for replacement.
8. Keep moisture and pests out
- A dry, ventilated garage is ideal. Damp storage leads to corrosion and mould.
- Use a breathable cover. Plastic sheets and tarps trap condensation against the bike.
- Plug the exhaust outlets and air intake against mice and insects, and hang a reminder on the key so you remove them before starting.
- Stand the bike on a mat or board if the floor is cold and damp.
9. Paperwork and security
Lock the bike, and check whether your insurance has any rules for storage or lay-up. Note what work to do over winter, while it's fresh in your mind.
Should I start my motorcycle during winter storage?
Starting the engine just to let it idle for a few minutes is often discouraged. It may not get hot enough to burn off the condensation it creates, which can do more harm than good. If you want to run it, a proper ride that brings it fully up to temperature is better. Your owner's manual has the final word.
Winter storage checklist
| Step | Why |
|---|---|
| Wash and dry | Prevents corrosion from dirt, salt and moisture |
| Fuel as your manual says | Avoids stale fuel and starting problems |
| Oil and filter change | Removes contaminants before the long rest |
| Battery maintainer or removal | Prevents a flat, damaged battery |
| Tyres inflated, wheels lifted | Reduces flat spots |
| Chain cleaned and lubricated | Stops rust |
| Coolant checked | Protects against frost |
| Breathable cover, dry place | Keeps out moisture and dust |
| Exhaust and intake plugged | Keeps out pests (remember to remove) |
Spring checks before your first ride
- Remove plugs, covers and anything you added for storage.
- Battery: charge and refit it, and check the terminals are tight.
- Tyres: set pressures cold, and look for cracks, cuts and tread depth.
- Brakes: check fluid, pads and that the levers feel firm. Discs can carry surface rust after storage; it should clear after a few gentle stops.
- Chain: check tension and lubricate.
- Fluids: oil, coolant and any leaks under the bike.
- Lights, horn and controls: test everything.
- Your gear: try it on, and check your helmet visor and gloves.
Take the first ride easy. Tyres are cold, roads may still carry winter grit, and your own skills need a few kilometres to come back. A quick read of cornering techniques is a good refresher. When you're ready to go further, use the motorcycle trip checklist and pick a road from our motorcycle routes — you can also save suggested routes in the GOEZ app.